Hi Everyone,
We are now in England for Christmas. It's been interesting coming from 30 dgrees to minus 7 degrees and snow. Getting to the Norsup airport on the Sunday we left was yet another reminder of the differences from our culture that we are learning to love. About 3 hours before we were due to leave we found out that our transport had two flat tyres. Maryann rang around but we couldn't find any alternative transport so we decided that we would walk with all our bags. Parts of the road were under water so we were going to have to use the tracks through the bush with our "pull along luggage." We worked out we would need two hours and were about to leave when across came our Kastom "Brother" Freddy with two of his mates. They each put a suitcase on a shoulder and off we walked - felt like being on safari with porters and guides. Two of these bags weighed 20 kgs and these lads walked along at a first clip with apparently little effort. In fact they walked the 4 kms with only one stop to change bags because they worked out that one was lighter. It was an impressive demonstration of fitness and strength not to mention the generosity of helping out. Again we felt humbled by the attitude of our hosts.
What a contrast here in England - people seem so busy and so rushed. The weather is a real cause of stress and yet amongst all this we have been approached by strangers when we were looking lost in London offering us advice and direction.
We have another two weeks here and then back to NZ before heading back "home."
We are both really looking forward to our next year in Malekula.
Cheers
Vic and Maryann

Hi All,
A lot has happened since the last blog - summary first .....
I've been to NZ for Outward Bound and Mackay, Australia for nothing (more about that later)
Maryann has been down to Asorok for a workshop and now we are on holiday!
Outward Bound was brilliant, motivating, exhausting and everything that it always is. The weather was good and the water was bloody cold -only went for two swims as a result. Before I left Malekula for OB I was invited to Mackay to run a workshop for one day. Then the workshop became 3 hours. When I arrived in Mackay I was told that the Union were unhappy about my involvement and on the day that I was to run the workshop I was finally told that I wouldn't be needed. Got paid for doing nothing but it was frustrating and I really would rater have contributed something. Good reminder for me though of why I don't work in an organisation any more.
Maryann had a much tougher time. She went to Asorok with Linda to run a workshop for three days. Her accomodation was a large building with a concrete floor that she shared with a number of other women. The toilet was outside and because the village had run out of water the shower was down a hill and along to a stream. Then it started raining, and raining ..... The good thing about this was that there was now water in the village and so bucket showers were available!! The bad thing was that the big fula river came up so much that they couldn't come back. The day after they were supposed to come back Linda arranged a ride for a couple of hours in a small boat. It was still raining and so they were soaked by the time they got back.
Then Maryann had a few final days with Karen before Karen's final departure from Malekula. Lots of farewell kaekaes and very emotional. Karen got presented with mats, baskets and more Island dresses. I think she had about 30 Island dresses when she left.
I got back for two days before we had to leave for Brisbane. We left on a Sunday and given the experience of a previous Sunday departure from the airport we had been very carefull to make sure that our transport to the airport was nailed down. Sunday morning - Louie the driver arrives and we are told that the Education Truck, our transport, has two flat tyres. We ring around but, not surprisingly,there is no transport available so we decide to walk. We realise that with the road under water in many places we are going to have to take our suitcases along the track through the bush and allow ourselves two hours walking time. As we are about to leave Linda says that Freddie, her son, will help. Not only does Freddie front up but so do two of his muscular mates. They take the heavy luggage on their shoulders and off we go. We felt like we were on safari with bearers. The walk took about 40 minutes and the strength and fitness of these young men was impressive. They only stopped once on the wholle walk to swap cases around and despite the temperature of 32 degrees they arrived without breaking into a sweat - unlike us!
We are now on the Gold Coast for four more days before we head off to England. I would have to say that this has been just an amazing year for us both. We have learnt, and are still learning so much from our Malekula experience. We are really looking forward to the next year and feel that we are now well positioned to contribute more effectively because of what we have experienced.
Hope you enjoy the photos
- children playing in the rain
- Maryann's sleeping arrangements
- Malekula safari

Cheers

Vic and Maryann

Maryann becomes Woman Malekula

11 November 2010
Hi All,
Maryann becomes Woman Malekula!
Well the last weekend was marked by the occasion of Maryann’s birthday and I think it was one she won’t forget. Maryann has managed 7 months as a volunteer without being presented with an Island Dress – got lots of mats, bags, calicos etc but no Island Dress. So Island Dresses became a theme for her birthday. This started first thing on Saturday morning when she was somewhat startled by what I was wearing when I bought in her cup of tea in bed. (The attached photo tells the story)
The day was very hot – we went to a fund raiser at the local Catholic Church in the morning – Maryann was very lucky at the dice game and had to play for quite a while until she managed to lose what she started with. My darts were appalling – nothing new there I guess – but the kebabs were well worth the investment. In the afternoon we took out our canoe and paddled almost halfway across to Norsup Island without incident. Snorkeling was next and again we were treated to beautiful coral and numerous brightly coloured fish.
That night Karen came round for Maryann’s birthday tea complete with cake and she gave Maryann a stunningly coloured Island Dress – again look at the photos. The next night our Nivan family put on another birthday occasion complete with laplap, rice, roast chicken and fresh pineapple. George made a moving speech to Maryann and then the Pastor did a reading from the Bible which had teaching as a theme. Linda gave Maryann a lovely Island Skirt and a calico featuring Malekula Island. It was all outside and the children had gone to a lot of trouble and decorated the area under our veranda with flowers and ferns. It really struck home to me how much our family here have accepted us and how much they think of Maryann.
We were supposed to have a Key Teacher workshop this week as I mentioned in the last blog report but unfortunately the funding didn’t come through from the Ministry so it was cancelled. Nevertheless Maryann and Linda have been busy this week with planning and preparing budgets. Next year is looking to be very busy.
I’m getting ready for my next Outward Bound Course in NZ next week and at least this time the weather should be a little warmer. Karen is down to her last two weeks and we are really going to miss her – she has been so good for us and we have become great friends. Her replacement has arrived – his name is Neil and apparently he does play cards so he should fit in OK.
Cheers`
Vic and Maryann

Hi,
What a great time on Santo! We started off the first weekend in some “rustic” bungalows up at Port Orly. What the bungalows lacked in elegance was more than made up for by the efforts of Maurice the owner to make sure that we were well looked after. When we arrived he walked us around the area so we knew where everything was and then came back at 7pm to escort us to dinner at the local restaurant. The food was great but even better was the live music that was laid on just for us. Needless to say Maryann and Karen were up dancing and singing but I preserved the NZ national image with much more taciturn and stoic behavior. Next morning at 5.45am breakfast arrived in the form of heaps of fruit and freshly baked bread. It still tasted great at something around 7am when we finally got up. The bungalows right up on a lovely golden sand beach and we spent the day exploring, swimming and resting. Back to the restaurant for dinner that night – again great food and we had obviously impressed Maurice because he didn’t feel the need to stay and see these white people back to their bungalow after the meal.
Sunday it was back into Luganville via a private beach that belongs to Maurice’s family (extraordinarily fine sand) and Champagne Beach. Of course Maryann had to stand on Champagne Beach and sing a couple of hit songs from South Pacific. Nothing new there!! Actually Champagne Beach was disappointing – not because of the beach but because of the 2000 vatu charge for just going onto the beach. Definitely will not be going back – an equally nice beach just up the road with no charge. All the tourists and expats that we have spoken to say they will never go back because of the charge. A real shame because the local stalls and markets are the ones who will suffer.
The days during the next week were at the workshop and Maryann found it very valuable – really gave her a better feel for what is happening in Early Childhood Education and where they are trying to go. Heaps of enthusiasm and commitment – it’s funding that is holding things up. But in terms of attitude and preparedness to learn and try new things – we could learn a lot. I really enjoyed the Nu-van approach to roleplaying – drama in Bislama and they certainly make learning using drama a whole lot of fun.
Then our treat to ourselves!! One night in luxury at Oyster Island Resort. We had high expectations and we weren’t disappointed. The accommodation and the dining was terrific. The snorkeling wasas good as anywhere we’ve been in Vanuatu but the highlight was the kayak up a river to the blue hole. I hope the photos have loaded onto this blog report because you would not believe just how startling the blue colour was when we got to the prize. I was amazed because it was amazing. Sunday afternoon it was back to Luganville with the last two days of the workshop on Monday and Tuesday.
It is great to be home again and we have a busy time coming up with the key teachers workshop coming up next week. I have four sessions to run – Assessments, Visions & Missions, Management and Leadership and I am going to try and run them as much as possible in Bislama. I’m still not happy with my fluency in Bislama and I think I need to get outside my comfort zone a bit more and these sessions will be a great start.
I’ve been having trouble with loading the photos onto the blog reports. Hopefully this time it works.
Cheers
Vic and Maryann

21 October 2010
Olsem wanem yu fullas,
This last week has been our most hectic socially since we have been here! Saturday night we had traditional sosoa with Karen’s family- wow, are they generous. There were thirteen of us white people – Howard & Jacqui, and six Peace Corp volunteers who were here as part of their induction. Despite our best efforts we couldn’t get through all the sosoa but I achieved a new milestone – I managed to sit with crossed legs for the entire meal and I have photographic evidence! I have been working on this and am quietly (perhaps not so quietly really) proud of my progress.
Howard and Jacqui stayed with us on Saturday night and on Sunday we went to Church with Karen’s family and it was a really enjoyable service. Lots of singing, shaking hands and being rather more active than I have been used to at Church – a lot of fun. That afternoon Karen, Sandra (Peace Corps Volunteer) and Maryann put on a workshop at Tatau Village. It was to teach parents how to make educational games for their children. It was very very hot, inside a hall with a corrugated iron roof and would you believe it – over 50 parents turned up and got stuck in making all sorts of toys and games. Quite humbling really.
Monday, Diane, our VSA Country Head turned up for a four day visit to see us, Howard & Jacqui and to meet with local people about the possibility for another volunteer. Also Yegor, a Russian/American Peace Corps volunteer from SW Bay arrived and stayed with us a few days. Personally, that was terrific to have the chance to talk sport, physical fitness and other guy stuff for a bit. Of course it meant more joint dinners with the Peace Corps inductees, Sandra, Diane and Karen so you can see just what a busy social life we have been having!
One night during dinner at our place a large millipod also turned up. Man, are they scary. They bite at one end, sting at the other and apparently each leg also has the ability to sting as well. People were standing on chairs and fortunately we just happened to have a jug of boiling water which dealt to the beast. Have a look at the photo – a bite can have you in hospital! The local fowl kill and eat them so I now have a new respect for the local fowl.
The next ten days are in Santos. There is a Kindy Co-ordinators workshop and we are using the weekends in between to have a bit of a look around. We are going to treat ourselves to a bit of luxury at Oyster Island Resort – breakfasts, restaurant meals and massages.
Cheers
Vic and Maryann.
PS Sorry I could not attach the photos - just imagine a horrible wriggly thing that bites and stings and you'll have the millipod pretty right!

Hi All,
It’s only a few days since the last blog report but we can’t turn down an opportunity to get on the internet and this afternoon looks as though it might be one of those opportunities.
The hot weather continues and now the area around Norsup is having periods where we have no water. There is no warning and the first time did catch us a little unprepared. We now have containers and buckets continuously full with water and we make sure that our solar shower is full as well. Just part of being here and it’s not really an issue for us.
Tuesday I went with Maryann and Linda to visit the Kindy on the Island of Uripiv. As always we were made very welcome and it was great to see the improvements that had been made since our last visit. The kindy teachers I have met are just amazing – often they are working for nothing or very little and what they manage to organise for the children with resources that they find and make is very impressive.
In the school field at the back of the Kindy we found an Archeological Dig. There were about 8 people involved with the dig and they were over a metre down below the surrounding land. According to the Director of the Dig, a Kiwi from a University in Canberra they were looking at remains and artifacts that were 3000 years old. Apparently this is when the first people arrived from south east asia. While we were watching they found a jawbone and they were very excited because this was this first human remains that they had discovered. Really fascinating and interesting to compare with the age of NZ!
Wednesday I had the consultation workshop with the Headmasters, School Council Representatives and Community Representatives on the Principals’ Manual that I have written. The day went well and I got some input for changes. The Headmasters seemed really enthusiastic about the idea particularly with the workshops that will follow as we implement the various parts of the manual. I have prepared a plan for implementation and the final workshop will be in June 2012. This is after our time here but the Zone Curriculum Advisers will be running the workshops after having attended the series of Train the Trainer Workshops. Enough work to keep me busy for the rest of my time here I think!
On Monday the two new NZ Volunteers arrive on Malekula – Howard and Jacqui. Looking forward to this and apparently we may well be going out for dinner on Monday night at a Restaurant!!! If we can persuade the restaurant to open …….
Looking forward to another weekend – really love the weekends …. Unless we have something specific organized this is a great time just to chill out, have a late brekky, read a few books and write letters. Then we pop down to the local café for a flat white – oh no, I forgot that’s NZ isn’t it. Usually we go for a bike ride and a swim. Would love to get out in our canoe but we are still waiting for the breeze to drop so we get a flat sea – ok so we’re wooses but we’ve already sunk it once.
Cheers
Vic and Maryann

Hi Yufullas,
Sorry about the lack of updates recently but we really have not been able to access the internet very much. Our usual place, TVET, has been having trouble with their satellite dish and although there is a new place in Lakatoro this place doesn’t allow the user to access anything off your own memory stick. This means that you can’t prepare in advance and you end up using the available time just processing what is in your email box. In the last report I mentioned that Tony and Suzie from Palmerston North had stayed with us for a weekend. I did mention about the difficulty getting transport in the weekend. What I didn’t mention what that they are card playing fanatics and although we could only show them Malekula within walking distance of our house we sure did have a lot of fun playing cards. Unfortunately Tony ended up as King in the game sometimes called “Scum” and will no doubt exercise bragging rights back in NZ!
Maryann has been quite busy over the last week – she went with Linda and looked at six kindys and is now writing reports on each of them. This week I finally have the workshop with the Headmasters and other officials to go over the operations manual that I have written. I think the real challenge will be in delivering the three or four resulting workshops to the Headmasters in a way that results in change and not just over
The weekend was very hot and by Saturday afternoon we decided we needed to get outside. We went exploring on our bikes and went along some tracks that we had seen but never ventured along. Most of our exploring went ok but when we found ourselves cycling along the runway at the Norsup Airport we figured that perhaps we were a bit off track. We finally got back on track after an hour of bush-bashing pushing our bikes and from time to time losing sight and contact with each other. I found Maryann each time – I’m assuming she wanted to be found! Hopefully I’ve managed to attach a couple of photos from this adventure. Anyhow, we now know a little bit more than before. The swim afterwards was well worth the effort.
The weather has definitely become hotter and George, next door, says that the rainy season should start about November. Can’t believe that it is going to be even hotter during the rainy season. The heat is absolutely great if you have absolutely nothing to do and can do this nothing in front of a couple of fans operating on high. Given that, it’s difficult to understand why anyone complains about the heat.
It’s hot again today and I think it’s about time I stopped writing and started doing nothing again.
Amazingly yours in Malekula
Vic and Maryann

Hi All, Not much this week - just back from NZ. I was at Outward Bound and Maryann was able to catch up with friends and relatives. We have had our first NZ visitors to stay - Suzie and Tony from Palmerston North. Unfortunately we were'nt able to take them and show them the sights - it was the weekend and despite sterling efforts by Karen and Maryann we just could not get transport anywhere.
Upcoming events for us - birthday party on Friday night, (6 yr old I think?), I have a workshop with Headmasters next week on the Operations Manual and Maryann is off checking some more kindies.
Weather is very hot and windy - so windy that we haven't ventured out in the canoe.

Lukim you later

Vic and Maryann

Hi All,
Not much of a report this week – we’ve had a pretty quiet week, thank goodness. However I have become a real man of Malekula! Maryann gave me a large bush knife for my birthday so I can’t wait to get out there slashing trails, cutting grass and opening coconuts. Does seem bloody heavy though – I’m not sure how long I could keep it up.
Last week I wasn’t able to load up the photos from the volcano walk so hopefully they will appear with this blog report.
Off to NZ next week – I have Outward Bound and Maryann is going to catch up with friends and family. Just two weeks and we will try and get to see as many people as possible. We also have a shopping list – things like batteries that can run digital cameras; coffee plunger; oregano and marmite.
Hard to believe that we are going to be cold!

Cheers
Vic and Maryann

23 August 2010
Hi All,
We thought that the few days at Southwest Bay with the Cultural Festival would take some beating but I think that last week on Ambryn pretty much did it.
On Wednesday we flew to Ulei on the Island of Ambryn to climb the volcano called Marun (In local language it is known as Bollysue which means Wild Pig). This is one of two active volcanos on Ambryn and last had a major eruption in 2005. There were four of us white people – me, Maryann, Karen and another Peace Corps Volunteer named Lindsay. We were met at the airport by Willie, a local teacher and the organizer of this adventure. The first thing we did was attend a Kastom Wedding where the wedding party was waiting for us – apparently Karen was the photographer! News to us but it did earn us a meal at the wedding and it was interesting to see that they throw talcum powder over the Bridal Party – contrasts nicely with the black hair and dark skin.
Then it was off to our Guest House in the Village of Endu. Pretty good accommodation with bunks and electricity supplied by a solar powered battery. After being variously told that the starting time next morning was 6am, 7am and 9am we finally found out that 8am would be the time. The next morning we were up, dressed and packed and left at 7.45am. Now Maryann and I had done some reading in the Vanuatu Guide book so we knew it was a pretty tough two days ahead of us and had especially noted the advice on footwear – strong shoes with good ankle support. Obviously our guide (Philemon), porters, accompanying teachers and children (8 teachers, and 4 children – 10 – 12 years old) had not read this very important advice. They turned up for the walk in jandals, crocs and barefeet. Should we show the page in the book about footwear? We decided not to!
The first section was a 5km walk along the coast to the point where we turned inland and climbed a very steep ridge for about an hour and a half before dropping down onto the huge ash plain that surrounds the volcano. The weather alternated between rain and sun and it was hard at times to work out whether we were wet from the rain or simply sweating heaps – the taste test proved it to be sweat!
After a short break for lunch we walked for two hours slightly uphill along the ash plain to the campsite where we were to stay the night. It was raining and we were all soaking wet when we halted but the rain stopped long enough for us all to get our tents up on the volcanic ash. The porters went off with their dogs (not much bigger than fox terriers) to try and run down a pig for tea. No pigs found so it was noodles and milo for tea. Shortly after it started raining again and didn’t stop until the following morning – poured all night and we were in our tent from 7pm until 7am the next day. Boy, were we glad had paid just a bit extra for our tent from Kathmandu – so even though almost all our gear was wet we were dry inside the tent and had a fairly good night’s sleep.
The next day we continued the tramp up the ash plain for an hour and a half and then it was another steep ridge with Philemon hacking a path through the bush and undergrowth out onto an area that was almost completely barren and consisted of a never ending series of ridges that we had to negotiate to get to the side of Bollysue. Finally at about midday we reached the edge of the crater but our climbing wasn’t over. We had to climb over ash and up a very steep crater edge to get the best view of the molten lava in the centre of the crater. It was just stunning! The photographs simply don’t do justice to the spectacle. We were allowed to lie on the edge and look over – it was too windy to stand - and you could feel the heat spilling up from hundreds of feet below. One of Philemon’s jandals came off and blew into the crater so he walked all the way back with one jandal on!
The walk back to Endu took just on 6 hours which meant that we walked 6 hours on day one and 8 hours on day two and we think that in distance it was around 45 km in total. We had started off feeling a bit like frauds as all our gear was carried by porters (The ones in jandals and barefeet.) On the second day feeling like a fraud was a lot better than how we would have felt if we had tried to carry all our gear.
The two days were an amazing experience – tough, beautiful, hot, cold, wet – that left us with a mixture of feelings
– impressed Philemon & the porters for their quiet pride in their country, for their generosity to us and for their remarkable fitness and strength;
– a deep sense of satisfaction for having endured and succeeded;
– physically very tired but no injuries apart from Karen with a few blisters;
– privileged to have been able to make this journey and look down into the centre of the earth;
– a desire to help Philemon and those like him here in Vanuatu who are trying to build a small sustainable tourism business.
How lucky are we!!
Cheers
Vic and Maryann

Hi Everyone,
We are now a 2 boat family! We took delivery of our 2 person outrigger canoe last week and we are learning fast. Our first lesson was that it sinks with 3 people if you don’t have them sitting in exactly the right place. Fortunately a local was on hand to give us advice and our second venture out with the three of us was fine. The locals think we have paid too much – about $230 but we think it’s great value considering the craftsman had to find the log, cut it to shape, hollow it out, attach an outrigger, make two paddles and then give it two coats of paint! We are looking forward to doing some fishing over the next few weeks.
Don’t die of shock, but it is the female of the species having a little talk this week.
I think I am right in assuming, that Vic reported on our visit to the island of Vao where I was on a working holiday and the other 2 were just on holiday!!
Last week, we set off on a journey (holiday) to SW Bay. We set off at 7.15 Tuesday morning by truck, for a 1 hour ride to Lambubu, where a boat was supposed to be, at 8.30am to take us the rest of the way. The village of Labo where we were going, is not accessible by road and the closest airport, when it is open, is about an hours walk from the village. Anyway, in true Vanuatu style, the boat turned up at 10.00, by which time, there was a local with his leg in plaster and his Papa waiting, a photographer/reporter from the cultural centre in Vila, and Australian/Russian couple and an Italian lady all waiting for the same boat. Anyway, we put all out bags up the front and piled into the boat. The weather wasn’t too bad, although it was drizzling off and on. The boat driver and his mate informed us that the boat ride would take 3 hours!! By the time we had been into a few bays and picked up people and dropped them off, it was 3 hours and we were very wet, mainly from the wind whipping the water off the sea and the sea being quite rough. We had a line out all the time and only caught a barracuda, which they let go thank goodness, as was not sure where he was going to sit!!
We stayed with a Peace Corp Volunteer, Yegor, at the village. He organized a custom house for the 3 of us to sleep in (Karen came with us). After we had lunch and a rested smol, Vic and I went out snorkeling. The coral and the fish were absolutely beautiful, even though it was a wee way to the reef and the water was a bit rough, but it was worth it. Vic left me out for a little longer and he swam in. I was about 5 mins behind him, but when I tried to swim in, I found that I was going backwards!! I must say I did panic a bit and kept on trying and waved a couple of times and yelled out to Vic, but he was still swimming. I looked behind me and saw some yachts which were there for the festival, so thought I could call to them if I got that far out. However, I looked down and saw a coral outcrop, so put my feet on that and got my breath. Vic still wasn’t looking, so thought I would try again and sure enough, I could swim in the right direction. When I got to shore, I discovered there had been an earthquake near Vila at about the time I was swimming, so am not sure if that could have had something to do with it!?
The next morning we were up bright and early and wandered down to the beach. We watched the people from about 10 yachts come ashore. We were all given salu salus and the festival started at around 10.00. Yegor was dancing with the locals, but he had to give a tithe to the chief for the honour of dancing with them. It was all quite spectacular. After the dancing, we all went into the village, where the Mama’s had cooked an amazing lunch for us. After that we went on a tour of the village, which is on the side of a hill and has some quite spectacular views. We went and saw the waterfall, where the men of the village have a shower. The women shower in the village at a communal shower, a pipe that is the height of a shower and is behind a tree. We were lucky enough to be able to use this also, even Vic. We were told that we must keep our clothes on when we shower!!
The next morning, we were back on the beach at 9.00, for the Grade Taking Ceremony, which happens about once every 25 years, as one of the chiefs had died and they needed to appoint 2 more. It was amazing to watch and of course included the sticking of 2 pigs which were taken away and cut up and then divided between the 9 villages represented. They cooked some of it up, along with Yam, which only the men were allowed to eat.
Once again an amazing lunch, was served up to us on the beach and then we were able to watch the preparation of some food and sand drawing. The sand drawings are done without taking your finger off the sand and all the pictures tell a custom story – fascinating.
One couple who owned a yacht, invited us out to look at his boat. It was a wooden one and really lovely. Vic swam out to it!!
When we got back to the beach, it was time to watch the locals making Kava and of course we had to sample it!! One shell was plenty for me! Am not sure if I will ever get used to drinking mud!! It does make your mouth go numb for a while!!
We organized for a boat to come and pick us up at 7.30 Friday morning and lo and behold, it was there at 7.20. Anyway, by the time we got on board, it was 7.30 and we were off. We dropped one man off on the way. The weather was beautiful when we started off, but half way through the trip, the wind got up and we got very wet. We caught one small fish on the way, had dolphins around us for a while and saw some small flying fish. The 3 hours went quite quickly!! There was a truck there for us when we arrived, so we were back at home by 11.30, which was good.
We did not realize that Monday is a holiday here – Assumption Day!! Anyway, we have made the most of a quiet weekend and have been out for a paddle in our canoe, biked along some new tracks to Lakatoro and generally had a quiet weekend, as we are off to Ambryn on Wednesday and to climb to volcano, Mt Benbow

Hi Yufellas,
The last two weeks have been typical of our stay here so far – new adventures every week and yet more examples of just how friendly and kind the people of Malekula are.
The week before last was dominated by the Independence Day celebrations. We spent part of the week at Walarano. There are two small islands here – Wala and Rano and the mainland village area is called Walarano. We stayed on small island Rano for the first night and were privileged to be given two tours of the islands by locals. We were shown cannibal sites and holy places and were told the stories of each of these places. The last recorded cannibalism was in the 1970s and it was a relief to be told that they didn’t eat white people – only local men from other islands.
The second part of the week we went to Lakatoro and were treated to an amazing football game – 2 all at full time, still a draw after extra time and still a draw after a 22 goal penalty shoot out. By this time it was almost dark and the game was called a draw. The pitch was surrounded by a large enthusiastic crowd who applauded and cheered madly every time a penalty went in. The result was appreciated by one and all. The evening for us finished with a spectacular fireworks display although we were a bit concerned for the safety of those lighting the huge array of fireworks.
This week we have been to Uripiv Island and Vao Island for Maryann to do checks of the kindys. On VaoIsland we found an amazing Kindy Teacher who would have been at home in any country. Maryann said it was as good as she had seen anywhere and the teacher, Juliet, was making terrific use of local materials as teaching resources. We stayed on the Island with Juliet for two nights and once again were overwhelmed with the generosity of these people.
Hopefully I’ve been able to download some photos from the last two weeks that might give some idea of what we are experiencing.
I am going to finish this report with my “Dog Poo” story which I think illustrates the point that we have been making over and over again about the generosity and kindness of these people ….
At the sports field at Walarano I managed to tread in some dog poo and I was trying to clean it off my sandals with a twig. A young man I had never met saw me doing this and came over. In Bislama he told me to come with him and he would help me clean the sandal. I followed him for some distance to the back of his family’s stall. He spoke to some people who were obviously family and next thing he had a bowl of water, had taken my sandal and cleaned it off with water and a stick. Now isn’t that just incredible. I know in NZ we are happy to help people with directions and things like that but would you go over and help someone you don’t know to clean dog poo off their shoe! I don’t think I would have before I came over here. I think the lessons we are learning from the people here are more profound and meaningful than anything we are teaching them.
Makes you think huh?
Cheers
Vic and Maryann

23 July 2010
Hi Yufullas,
Well, yet another great week for us. Our social calendar has been pretty full – a Jewish Sabbath Dinner with Karen and Yegor on Monday night. Yegor is a Peace Corps Volunteer based at a little village called Labo in South West Bay. His site is very remote – no electricity, no running water and a total population in his village of about 150 people. Yegor is a young man in his twenties and by the sound of it has achieved some great outcomes for his village. Every week all the men in the village spend about three days working on whatever project the Chief decides. As a village they have got together and have a vision of creating a tourism business based around some bungalows that they are going to build. In August they have a major Cultural Festival – we are determined to be there!
Tuesday Maryann did an assessment of a small kindy at Lambubu Village. It was quite heart wrenching to see this passionate and energetic kindy teacher working her magic with the children in a custom house that had holes in the roof and walls. All the work that the children and the teacher had done would be destroyed in a decent rain and if it rained hard the kindy would have to close for the day. Maryann has done an assessment report that hopefully will motivate that kindy to get in behind their teacher and build a new kindy house.
Tuesday afternoon – we were back in Lakatoro at the Stadium for the opening of the Primary School Games. There are about 20 schools competing and as always the children take it very seriously.
On Wednesday, we went into watch some relays and I was very impressed at the speed of some of the athletes. They are naturals as they run everywhere!
That night we went back down to Karen’s again and were treated to some Russian Hamburgers (cooked by Yegor) which of course had to be preceded by Vodka and Pomplemouse juice. So we have had to come to Malekula to experience a Jewish Sabbath Supper and Russian hamburgers.
Thursday we were back at the Stadium again – partly to watch the Primary School Games and partly to prepare the Education Office Stall for the Independence Celebrations which start next week and run for 10 days. Local people have built stalls all around the stadium ground and for 150 vatu (about NZ$2.50) you can buy a meal. You can even buy icecream! In the end we left a little earlier than we had initially intended – it just got too hot for us white folk. It was great though, watching the volley ball and hand ball games.
Next week we are off to Walla Orano for a view days and will be going over to Walla Island for one night – we have ordered laplap for dinner so looking forward to that.

Cheers

Vic

This week started off with a disappointment but ended up being a very interesting week. We were supposed to go to Sunesup this week to help with a Kindy Workshop and we were both looking forward to going. The transport, a Toyota Ute, had been booked and we were supposed to leave at about 2pm. Unfortunately by the time the transport got to us it was too full and there was no room for us. Very disappointing in view of the fact that we were probably the only passengers who had actually booked! But booking doesn’t count.
The upside of all this was that it meant we were able to meet up with Diane, the Country Head for VSA, who had come over from Santos. Diane was the person who had made all our arrangements and ensured that our housing was really tops.
The next morning we were invited to a Baptism and Wedding – this is what the pictures are about. The Baptism was down at the beach at 8am and the weather and the sea were just perfect. It really was quite a moving ceremony as the Bride and Groom were taken into the sea and baptized by the Pastor. What made it special for us was that the Groom was Moli, the Carpenter from just down the road, who had made all our furniture. The Pastor was Moli’s father. After the Baptism we made our way to Moli’s house where the wedding took place. There was lots of singing by the Bride’s family and then by the Groom’s family before the wedding actually started. Out the back of the house was an area where the Bride’s family had put their “brides price” gifts – a huge number of yams and bananas. After the wedding the bride went up to another house and was dressed in custom dress for the custom wedding, before being led back down by the bride’s family again to much singing as they walked to be given to her husband. The hundreds of guests were fed laplap, rice, fish, bullock, greens and pomplemouse. We had to leave about 4o’clock and it was still going strong when we left – a terrific experience and one we felt very privileged to have been invited to.
Thursday was a celebration of Kindy Day in Lakatoro. The children, teachers and parents from Kindys all around the central area gathered in the stadium for speech-making and displays by the children. Everyone marched in behind the Police Truck with its flashing red light and each kindy held up the banners they had made. Maryann was a VIP – she sat up on the stage with the “big fella men” and got to make a speech. I was very proud of her – she spoke so clearly and her voice was strong and confident – she was clearly the best speech maker on the day!
So our life continues to be enriched week by week and we just never know what it going to happen next. We were warned before we came that boredom would be something that we would have to deal with and we are still waiting.
Hope you are all as happy in your worlds
Cheers
Vic and Maryann

Hi Everyone,
The last six days I have been in NZ. Certainly we get frustrated from time to time with the pace of things here but my trip to NZ has put that all into perspective. The trip was for a workshop with Outward Bound and they arranged for their Travel Agent to make all the bookings – the result was pretty awful ….. I was supposed to have electronic tickets according to the itinerary I received. The airlines were told physical tickets and so I ended up paying myself for the Ak – Wgtn leg. The Travel Agent handled my complaints poorly (in my view of course) so by the time I arrived at Vila for the 10.30am flight to be told that the flight left at 7.30am I was pretty bloody annoyed. Got it out of system today though with a 3 page letter of complaint – boy that felt good!
The weather here seems to be getting a little cooler – down to about 20 at night and maybe around 28 during the day – very nice. Our garden is growing well and we are looking forward to tomatoes, lettuce, kumara and melons. Otherwise we seem to be in a comfortable routine – vodka and pomplemousse at night, watch band of brothers, have tea, watch burn notice and then play cards. Maryann is having a purple patch at cards and I’m having to get used to being thrashed – must be luck surely!
Off to Sunesup next week so it may be a couple of weeks before our next up date.
Cheers
Vic and Maryann

Hello Yufullas,
We’ve had a pretty quiet week which has been great for catching up after the workshop and after the visitors. Took about three days just to catch up on the washing – sure do miss the washing machine thingy. It takes about an hour to do two sheets and a couple of towels – my mum has earned a bit of historical respect now I know what she was having to do back in the 1950s!
I’m off to NZ on Sunday just for a few days to attend a Facilitators Workshop with Outward Bound. I arrive on Sunday, travel to Anikiwa on Monday, get back Tuesday night and then fly back to Port Vila on Wednesday. No time for shopping and very limited time to catch up with family.
In mid July the plan is that we head down to Sunesup for a week to help with a Kindy Teachers’ workshop. This was the place we were supposed to go to a few weeks ago but couldn’t get there because the river was too high. Apparently it is now low enough to get across so we should be going on the 12 July – or at least around then some time. We’ll see.
We’ve now been here just over 3 months and it’s certainly gone quickly. The only thing bugging us at the moment is that we’re still not fluent in Bislama – I think we should be better than we are. Anyhow we have a plan – we play cards with Karen most weekends and so we are going to ask her to speak with us only in Bislama. We think that will be good for our Bislama but probably not great for our cards. Worth a try we think.
We love getting …. So big thanks to you mailers.
Back again next week

Cheers
Vic & Maryann

Hi All,
This week has been a busy week for us both. Maryann and Linda ran a Key Teacher workshop for the Malampa Province. The Teachers came from all the Islands in the Province and the workshop was helf at the Norsup School with the teachers sleeping on the floor in another classroom. We had a VSA volunteer and a staff member from Save The Children staying with us. We had seven for dinner on Tuesday night with a few extra Peace Corps volunteers who were staying in the area. Quite the thing to be entertaining on such a large scale!
I helped out at the workshop with a few energizers and with cooking for our guests. On the Thursday night of the workshop Linda and George organized a traditional dinner for all the workshop attendees and helpers. He made laplap from Taro, coconut and chicken and it was delicious. You can see a few photos of the evening. We got presented with traditional woven mat and Maryann got a really nice woven basket as well….. she is delighted with it.
All the people that helped in any way with the conference were presented with gifts and it really is humbling to see how much they local people appreciate what we contribute.
We are looking forward to a quiet weekend with perhaps a few phone calls to family. Nearly three months here now – time has gone fast.
Cheers
Vic and Maryann

The weather is either cooling off or we are getting more used to it. There are still some pretty hot days – over 30 degrees I guess – but the mornings and the evenings are much more bearable. Still pretty uncomfortable in the direct sun during the day.
I went back to NZ for 10 days and did some work down in Dunedin with Port Otago. The best thing about the visit was getting to see my family again and I had a terrific time with my grandchildren. It was bloody cold though and I ended up borrowing clothes to keep warm. I thought it would be hard to come back to Malekula but apart from the wrench of leaving family and friends I found I was actually looking forward to getting back “home.”
While I was in NZ Maryann attended a workshop in Port Vila and added a few days on both ends to be a tourist for a few days with VSA and Peace Corps volunteers. She found there are some lovely resorts in Port Vila and it is a very different lifestyle from that on Malekula – far more expensive to live for one thing. If you are thinking of having a holiday in Port Vila then the Iririki Resort is very very nice. Great for families or just couples and covers the entire island – looks like some pretty good package deals are offered from time to time.
In Port Vila Maryann did a big grocery shop for all the things we can’t get on Malekula. Things like coffee, dishcloths, herbal teas, glad wrap etc. They were supposed to arrive last Tuesday on the Big Sista ship. We waited on the wharf (the boat was one and a half hours late) in the hot sun only to find there had been a mixup and our cartons were still in Port Vila – we get to do it all again next Tuesday.
One of the headmasters has approached us about getting books for the schools. If we can arrange a container load of books he will organize all the headmasters to contribute to pay the cost of freight. Books are one thing that they are really desparate for so if anyone has any ideas how to collect a whole lot of books we would be very interested – almost any type of book – novels, texts, journals etc
Things coming up for us …… fly to Santos for a meeting next week (we think?), Key Teacher Workshop the following week, off to Ambryn Island within the next month (probably), Independence Day celebrations in July (not sure where we will be for this)
Overall everything is going well and we are loving the survival parcels that keep coming with books, magazines and CHOCOLATES!
Cheers Vic and Maryann

Here's a couple of shots that give a bit of an indication of how our house is furnished..... made by a local carpenter the furniture is really high quality and made from a very nice native timber.

This is the result of the 3 week toymaking workshop. The course starts off with the teachers going out and finding the resources in the local environment. Then they saw, drill, whittle, hammer and paint to produce the kindy resources that you see in the photo. The last few days of the workshop is where they take turns at running sessions with the children and are given feedback on their performance. Some of the women walked for up to 2 hours to get to and from the workshop each day.